— Surrounded by Pennsylvania’s brilliant fall foliage last week, we explored gardens, caves, museums — even architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s miracle designs.

Standing alone, however, was our glimpse into the Amish culture.

We had been there before. But this time I was more prepared after reading several of Beverly Lewis’ books. The best-selling author of “The Shunning,” grew up in the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country and has drawn on her mother’s Plain family heritage.

I interviewed tour guide Sandy Clark who joined us on our bus in Lancaster County. Riding over country roads I took notes as fast as I could, asking more questions privately.

The Amish have their roots in the Mennonite community, as both were part of the early Anabaptist movement in Europe during the Protestant Reformation of the 1500s. The Anabaptists believed that only adults who had confessed their faith should be baptized and that they should remain separate from the larger society.

In 1693, a Swiss bishop named Jacob Amman broke from the Mennonite church. His followers were called the “Amish.” The Amish and Mennonites both settled in Pennsylvania as part of William Penn’s push for religious tolerance. The first sizable group of Amish arrived in Lancaster County in the 1720s-30s.

Three Anabaptist-related groups now live in Lancaster County: the Amish, Mennonites and Brethren. They share the same basic values regarding the all-encompassing authority of the Bible, a philosophy of brotherhood and non-resistance and the importance of family and community. (www.padutchcountry.com)

The Old Order Amish — some 30,000 of them — are the most conservative of Lancaster County’s Plain groups.

Clark said, “If you want to know if a home is Amish, see if there are no electricity lines. They have no cars, and use draft horses and mules in their fields.

“Each settlement is different, based on the rules of their bishops. Many of the people are wealthy, as they work 60 to 80 hours a week, believing that idle hands are the devil’s workshop.”

But economic times have changed, she noted, and some 60 percent of families now need income from other businesses besides their farms.

“This is the richest soil in North America,” she said. “They make more crops per acre here than any other non-irrigated farms. On a good year they can have six cuttings of alfalfa. Tobacco has been a top crop since 2006. But there are just so many farms and the population of the people is increasing.”

Amish believe that electricity connects them to the world while battery power does not. Propane power compressors are used on dairies for automatic milkers for their Holstein cows and for larger household equipment. Bottled gas operates refrigerators, stoves and water heaters.

She said the average Amish family has 6-7 children. There are no televisions, radios or newspapers.

Humility is the hallmark of Amish beliefs. Patience, waiting and yielding to others are marks of maturity. The women and girls never cut their hair. It is twisted back on the sides and rolled into a bun, covered by a prayer cap, with strings usually untied. They wear no makeup or jewelry. In modest, solid-colored dresses — usually brown, blue or green — with long sleeves and a full skirt, a cape and apron, they stand apart. They consider photographs of themselves to be sinful, graven images.

Our guide told of “frolicks,” where making applesauce, quilting, etc., is more fun when women gather within the community to do it together.

Amish may work with “Englishers” — the outside world, and women may sell homemade baked goods and items to the public.

Clark smiled and said, “I hired a young Amish girl to baby sit. She didn’t know how to operate the washer or microwave but she loved to watch TV and to stay cool in the air conditioning.”

There are no Amish church buildings. Worship is held in homes every other Sunday. The church wagon brings benches and song books (with no music notes) to the home in advance, often set up in basements. One of their preachers (nominated and voted in for life by each group,) presents the sermon in Old German and reads from the Bible and discusses the Ordnung, the Amish unwritten set of rules. The men and boys enter the service first and sit on one side, followed by the women and girls, on the other. Children are seated towards the back.

Our guide said, “The sermon lasts for two hours. It is followed by a light lunch. Having worship at your home requires a lot of work and preparation.”

There are 180 Amish church districts in Lancaster County — one for each 25 to 30 families. Alternating Sundays are spent visiting homes.

Some 180 one-room Amish schools teach through eighth grade in Lancaster County.

Clark explained, “The students learn English (“Pennsylvania Dutch” is spoken in homes and in the community), writing, reading, arithmetic and history/geography. Teachers are usually young women who recently finished the school, themselves. There is no state testing or funding. High school time is in home schooling — learning a skill or how to run the farm for boys, and cooking, sewing, gardening and child care for the girls.”

Although the Amish pay taxes, they do not buy health or life insurance, nor may they sue. They treat minor illnesses with herbs, teas and some are self-taught reflexologists. All pay into the Amish Aid Society which provides help with medical or hospital bills for serious illnesses.

A new buggy is a financial investment for an Amish family. Clark said one could cost up to $7,000.

“It would be equipped with two bench seats and brakes,” she said. “A 12-volt battery is used to power window wipers, turn indicators and lights. Bicycles are not permitted, as they would take the children too far away.”

Clark said, “It is popular now for young Amish to choose a gang to join. In reality, it is like a youth group. Some 60 will gather for volleyball, hymn singing and a late meal. There are two kinds of gangs: ruled (chaperoned) and no-rule. During this time in their lives before they have joined the church, they sometimes secretly buy cars and hide them behind the barn. They may even dress as Englishers, but change before going home.”

They must join the church before they marry as Amish.

Clark said, “Some 80 percent of the youth decide to stay in the Plain life. The groom’s bishop writes a letter of good standing to the bride’s bishop.

“When it is marrying season (October and November) their engagement is announced at worship. The family often sends word to up to 500 friends and relatives to come to the wedding ... on a Tuesday or Thursday.”

The home’s walls and floors have been scrubbed. The bride wears a new dress — usually royal blue — that she has made from the same pattern she wears each day. There are no flowers.

Clark said, “One of the biggest responsibilities is to have a spot for all the horses to be fed and watered. The wedding day begins at 7 a.m. At 8 a.m. the wedding guests enter, where the bride and groom are seated in a corner together. After a three-hour ceremony, the meal is served by the host. Guests stay all day.”

Clark explained, “Usually they roast 24 chickens in seven or eight rented ovens. Among the dishes are mashed potatoes and butter cream celery and many desserts.

After the wedding the groom grows a beard ­— no moustache. The couple lives with her parents for a few months until they have a place of their own. Most of their furniture is supplied by the bride’s family, plus a six-month’s supply of meat. The groom gives his bride a set of china.

The youngest son inherits the farm. When his parents are older the son will build a Dawdi house for them, built against the big house with a door connecting the two.

The Amish have strict guidelines for funerals.

When a death occurs, the body is taken to a mortician for embalming. Then, the family brings the body home, dresses it, and places it in a six-sided wooden coffin with two doors on the top. Visitation is at home.

Clark said, “The typical response is stoic. The family tries to see the death as God’s will and in his timing.”

The pallbearers dig the grave. On the third day the coffin is placed in a horse-drawn hearse and the procession follows quietly to the cemetery.

At the end of our tour we were invited inside an Amish home’s basement, where we were served a home-cooked meal. Lighted by gas lanterns on the walls, the long room’s only decorations were two framed lists of family ancestors and a calendar. Teenaged daughters helped their mother by serving freshly baked bread, peanut butter (sweetened by syrup and marshmallows,) buttered noodles, pickled beets and chutney. English peas and whipped potatoes were followed by baked chicken and ham loaf. Chocolate cake or shoo-fly pie were dessert.

I looked at their faces. I sensed we were served more than food: humility, quiet servitude — a permitted quick look inside the Plain life.

    

Larue Barnes may be reached at

laruebarnes@yahoo.com

www.dandieperttours.com